Court Construction Braunton Recreation Ground Summer 2006 Errected with funding from the Beach Volleyball North Devon The number one question is How Much? This court was built for £125, the net is an expensive one but a £30 net could be used and the total cost would be £60 Below are photos and text with full detailed information on how to build your grass volleyball court. For further information, questions and help please contact Denise Austin Tel 00 44 (0)1271 890676 denise@beachvolleyballinc.com

Build A Beach Volleyball Court Grants Aiding Local Communities Brighton Beach Yellowave Build Six Courts by 2007 Beach Sports Multi Use

	Planning the Site
	The ground was fairly level although on a slight curve at one side. There were a few pot holes which we filled in but overall it was a good location.

	Digging Out For The Posts
	A spade designed especially for digging holes is required to make this an easy job, the one shown in the picture is of the older style and was a sharp tool. Spades can be bought at Jewsons or similar suppliers, they are long and thin and curved about 15-20 cm wide. Ideally it is best not to go too large when digging in the holes as less tamping is required when filling the hole back in. The posts will not move as much if the ground is firmer. The holes are dug to 100cm deep. While at about 70cm you may be thinking 'that should be OK' and stop! The posts will last and sustain use going into the ground the extra few cm's. The posts will not lean and will cope with the tension ( I know we gave up on our first few AND REGRETTED IT!.It may be you start wider at the top and will go narrower to wards the bottom. Remember to dig your holes 100cm either end away from the net edge. e.g. if you net is 9m long then dig your holes 11m apart.

	Sleeves For The Posts
	Once your hole is dug to the required depth, place your drainage pipe 110mm diameter, cut to the required depth into the hole. The two ways we have cut our lengths of drainage pipe: In the picture shown we have put the pipes in at about 10cm above ground height as we drilled a bolt through the pipe and post to secure them into the ground. On some sites we lined the drainage pipe to ground level below the grass line so that if the posts need to be taken out and the area used for another use a drainage bung can be put into the hole and if required grass turf placed over that. Once the pipe is in place put 10-15cm of pea grit into the bottom of the hole to aid drainage. You can if you like paint your posts with bitchumen paint to keep the posts better preserved. (ignore the staples at the bottom of this post as we recycled them and these are removed later!)

	Angle the Posts
	When you have put your pipe into the hole with the pea grit, put some soil back into the hole to hold the drainage pipe into place. Then put your post into the pipe, we use round treated wooden 4" posts at about £8 each. The reason to do this is so that you can align the post and your drainage pipe up with a slight tilt away from the court so that when the net settles in and tension is placed on the net they will eventually end up-right. If you start upright the posts will eventually lean in and then hanging the net correctly becomes difficult. When you start to replace your soil be sure to tamp it down regularly and really firmly. Dont skimp at this stage as all you want to do is get the hole filled back in. This is key to keeping your posts upright, ANY cheating at this stage will become obvious after about 3 weeks and the first rain on the soil!

	Attaching the Net
	There are various methods for attaching the net at the top of the post. The picture shown is the way not to attach the net to the staples! When the net is tensioned the staple will come out of the post! We have found the best way is to go over the top of the post, putting two staples into the top of the post to keep the net steel sitting on top of the post. Then at one end we hammer in almost completely one staple high up on the post so that the steel string is secured. At the other side again we go over the top of the post, using two staples to keep the string sitting on top of the post (dont hammer in the staples too deep as the string needs space to be pulled through for any loops, metal attachments etc) We then put anpther staple about head height to keep it aligned and then at waist height put in another staple. The net string goes through the staples a loop can then be added to be able to pull down on the net to bring the net to the required height. Alternatively holes can be drilled 10 and 20 cm down from the top of the post and metal loops put through attached to a steel bolt. This again isn’t necessary but if you want to secure the net then the steel bolt can be used to padlock the net to the posts. Not the best way unless you use an anti-rust padlock. This can add an extra £20 to your cost.

	The Finished Net
	The Net was errected for the start of the summer to work alongside the youth club. There was no vandalism of the net although it was good to go along regularly and check the net is looking good, the tension is correct and all the ropes and staples are in correctly. This shows the net is used regularly and as it was with the youth club the village children took ownership of the net. Huck nets do sell anti vandal nets made of steel but are very sever in their look. I would suggest a cheap £30 net with a steel string to secure it in place and a leap of faith by your volleyball club and the local community. If you can find a local garage that will hold onto a ball or community center so the local people know where to borrow a ball even better. We donated some old balls to the youth club. You can advertise your local volleyball club on the posts so you establish the community club links.

Huck Nets

Awards for All

Sportset

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